North

Mohsen's wife Fatimeh is from the north; close to the Caspian Sea.  It was so warm and beautiful.  Sadly we didn't get to the actual beach until after sundown, which means no pics.  We saw night fishermen but that wasn't photo worthy.  Amir did have a seashell at one time...but it got lost somewhere.  I guess technically it's a big lake shell.
The city where Fatimeh's family lives has citrus trees all along the streets.  But they said people don't pick them. The fruit ends up falling and rotting and the city has to clean it up.  Are you kidding me?  I would be all over that.
On the drive there we crossed over mountain ranges covered with snow.  Amir says people do ski.  We saw some sledding too.  Sadly, we did not stop to participate.
It was exhausting doing so much driving, but it was nice to see so much of Iran.  It really is a big country.  I could spend months there and not see everything I want to see. <<sigh>>  Some day.

We stopped at a rest area that had this old Christian church.  (Yeah. Still there.)
It's probably Latin under the cross, but I can't figure out what it means.

Train tracks built into the mountain.
Are you totally feeling the epic ambiance?

Cuties in the mountains.

Fatimeh and Mohsen.

Citrus trees on the streets.  

Palm trees in Iran.  Awesome!

Angry birds are EVERYWHERE!!
They really are a world-wide phenomenon.

Amir playing at the Caspian Sea.
(The water is behind him, you just can't see it.)

Fatimeh's mom and brothers.
(We stayed at her sister's house outside of Tehran, but I didn't get  pictures.)

Pretty snowy mountains.

Kabobs

Sohrab's skewers didn't have handles, but you get the idea.
Picture is from mypersiankitchen.com

As some of you may have experienced, Amir makes delicious barbecue. Sohrab (Somayeh's husband) also makes delectable kabob. He made us kabob with barbecue swords like Amir.  Well, I call them swords because they are very wide and look like the could impale any type of meat.  And Sohrab has the coolest container for his swords; it's like a metal pipe with detachable lid and handle.  That's really the only way to describe it.  Amir wants to make a holder out of PVC pipe now.  Of course Amir had to purchase more swords and bring them home.  I was a little worried about customs, but they made it through ok.

I love how the grill is the perfect shape for the skewers.

Such excellent helpers.  Its funny how in every country, when the barbecue starts,
the men all end up outside around the grill.

Somayeh also took me to visit one of her friends who owns a beauty salon.  I'm sorry I don't have pictures.  But it was an interesting experience in that it was a women only establishment.  It had paint on the windows and a dark curtain over the door.  Amir and Sohrab could not come in; even though there were no customers.  I also went to visit a gym with Leila and the same rules applied.  The gym had time for men and time for women, and during the women's time, no men are allowed.  I kinda liked it.

More Kangavar

Amir's sister Somayeh and her husband Sohrab live in Kangavar.  It's a city between Tuyserkhan and Kermanshah.  Amir's mom's sister also lives there.  The video is her house.

Fatimeh and Nemah.
Fatimeh and Mohsen brought potato chips. They are definitely the favorite cousins.

Amir and his Aunt Sakineh.

Farzaneh and Farhad.

A cute little Amir.

Nemah, Amir and Amir.

A deck of cards are a great way to break the language barrier.  I taught everyone Slap Jack and Go Fish.  Fatimeh is very fast.  Mohsen is a wee bit competitive and he likes to cheat.  Nemah is a bit of a card shark. But the video shows the basics.  I liked it simply because I know the numbers in Farsi and could actually communicate.  Yey!  Mohsen also wanted to play trumps.  Nemah and I were partners, and I was doing just fine, thank you very much.  But Amir said I did not know how to play.  So he took over.  (Amir is a wee bit competitive too.  Must run in the family)   

Grandma and Grandpa Garner gave us Monopoly for Christmas.  It arrived the day before we left, so Amir said, let's bring it with us.  I thought that was an odd idea, but why not?  Amir's family caught onto the nuances of the game very quickly.  I wish I had taken a video of the haggling and negotiating.  It was amazing!! Nemah and Farhad stayed very late and played with us.  Mohsen said on the way home Nemah fell asleep and was saying "I want to sell.  I want to buy," in his sleep.  

I think a deck of playing cards will now travel with me wherever I go.  That and UNO.  That's another good game.  I know colors in Farsi too.

More Kermanshah

Video of Mahmood's house. These are Amir's aunts and uncles on his dad's side.  (The ladies are all Amir's dad's sisters.  I hope that's clear.)  And the younger girl is his dad's neighbor's daughter.  (Again, it's as clear as I can make it.) Their neighbors are lovely, by the way. They washed clothes for us and let us use their facilities.  So much awesomeness.
I'm sure everyone has romantic notions of bazaars in foreign countries; back alleys, dark rooms, smoke hazy in the air.  Yeah no.  Most shopping is done in street front stores and stalls.  But in Kermanshah they do have an old bazaar.  And it was all the middle eastern cliche you could ever want.  I only have one picture.  (I hang my head in shame.)

Eat your heart out.  It was really this cool.

We also went to visit a great uncle   I think it was a great uncle.  He has a touch of dementia and he was the cutest thing ever in the universe!  His wife was this tiny little spitfire.  The uncle kept forgetting our names and telling funny jokes.  There was much, much laughter.

Aren't they adorable?

More lovely people below.  The mom reminded me so much of my aunt Julie.  The daughter spoke English; very helpful.   [I also think she needs to meet my youngest brother. ;) ]  I wish we could have spent more time.  So many delightful people and not enough time.

Awesome people.

Kermanshah

So far all the places I've talked about have not been Amir's actual hometown.  So today, Kermanshah and Amir's childhood home.
Hey, awesome story, even Amir didn't know this.  Marzieh (Amir's mom) said he was a beautiful child.  And she thought he was so dear, she had his ear pierced.  I don't understand the connection between piercings and cuteness, but  he had a little gold ring in his left ear.  Like a little Persian pirate.  No she didn't have pictures!  I would soooooo have loved pictures.  I really need copies of all his mom's photos  Maybe next trip.

Persian meels.
Not my photo.  Found on Google.

Something else I learned about my sweet Amir.  He used to work out with these wood thingies called meels. (I think that's how you say it.) Apparently they're used in Iran and India  for weight lifting/ muscle building. He also had a little mustache he wore through high school and university.  And very stiff, very high hair.  Yeah.  He personified 80's awesomeness.  (Picture the movie 'House Party' and you'll get pretty close to Amir's look.)  So happy I met him in his mature years.

Amir in front of his gate. This totally looks like a 'first day of school photo'.
Am I right?

Amir's high school.

Mahmood (Amir's dad) in front of his shop.  Which is right next to the house.
His dad is a welder.  He made the rocking cradle in the foreground.
Wish I could have brought one home.

Mahmood's shop.
The cages hanging from the ceiling all have canaries in them. And yes they sing.

The front hall of Amir's house.  As you can see, breakfast is being set out.  We ended up moving into the room  to the left to sit in front of the heater.  It was a wee bit chilly in the mornings.

Leila coming out of the kitchen.

The kitchen.  Notice the washing machine in the corner.  Almost every house we visited had the clothes washer in the kitchen.  I think it's rather convenient.
No dryers though.  Stuff hangs on a line outside or a rack inside.

The one and only bedroom.  I asked Amir where he slept.  He said on carpets in front of the heater.

Had to get a picture of this.  I thought it was powdered sugar.  Nope, it's milk- in a plastic bag.  I guess the cow should have given me a clue.  But the orange juice comes in a carton.  Go figure.  

Bisitoon 2

Because I promised, more from Bisitoon

Taken on the road to 'Bisotun'.  That may be how you spell it, but it's not how people pronounce it.

Amir the Persian mountain goat.  

Fatimeh, the other goat.

These are ruins of something.  We kept asking and no one seemed to know what they were.

This and the one below are two different views of the same caravan.  We didn't get to go inside.  But it was neat looking so I had to take pictures.

  So this is a huge section of the mountain that has been carved flat.  It actually has a legend attached with it.  There's a beautiful princess named Shirin.(Of course she's beautiful.  Did you ever hear a story about the fat, ordinary, dimwitted or plain princess?) Anyway, a man named Farhad falls madly in love with her, but can't marry her. (I don't know why.  I'm a little fuzzy on the details) So the king says, in order to marry her, Farhad has to carve the mountain flat.  So off he goes to carve for his true love. Now, depending on who tells the story Farhad ends up dying from his labors or the king lies and says Shirin is dead so Farhad throws himself off the mountain.  Either way he dies tragically never getting to marry his pretty princess.  

  But the rock really is carved.  And it's HUGE.  Amir down there gives you a little perspective.

There's a spring at the base of the mountain that's been enclosed into a pool.  There's also a small park.  In the summer, the pool would be way tempting.  As it was, it was beautiful, but sooooooo cold.

Molly, Fatimeh, Leila and Mohsen.

The videos are a panorama and the drive to Bisitoon from Kangavar.  Yeah, I need to slow my panning shots.  Again people, I'm not a professional.  (It was also way windy and I was standing on a not so steady rock.)

Bisitoon

Bisitoon is one of the few touristy things we saw.  Well, we saw part of it.  The most famous part with Darius was covered with scaffolding.  I found a picture at a travel website so you can see it.

This is not my picture it belongs to http://www.bavanatecotour.com/iran_bistun.htm.
Yeah, I travel halfway around the world and  it's covered up.
Bisitoon is quite pretty.  There's a natural spring and a lovely park.  But it was waaaaaay cold the day we went.  Cold and windy.  I had to tie a knot in my headscarf as it kept from flying off.
A quick tip- good shoes are an essential part of any traveling experience.  Because you have to take your shoes off and on in Iran, I recommend something sturdy, yet non-tie.  Slip on is the way to go.  Heels are a mistake.  I  have great Mary Jane's from Landsend that have a walking tread. Super cute, super comfy and super easy to get on and off.
I mention shoes because Mohsen did not have good shoes at Bisitoon and he cold not walk on the rocks very well.  I shouldn't laugh, but it was way funny.  Fatimeh is a mountain goat like Amir. (I call my husband that because he runs up mountains. Not walk. Run.) Maybe it's a Persian thing.  Hercules is not Persian.  But he was carved by the Greeks. See the sign below; it explains things. I have more Bisitoon, but it will wait for the next post.

Amir the cave man.